EFENDI'S,

Among more than a dozen hot and cold appetizers are a few non-Mid-Eastern choices, such as smoked trout ($6.95) and Portuguese-style steamers with chourico, ($8.95). But we had to have the "mezza plate" ($7.95), a compilation of the Mediterranean region's greatest hits. While my personal preference is for tzatziki to be searing with fresh garlic, most diners-will find Efendi's version of the cucumber and yogurt dipping sauce-breath-enhancing enough. If you're unfamiliar with any of the other items, trust me: they're definitive. The baba ghanoush (mashed eggplant with sesame tahini) is as light as tapioca. The hummus, mainly ground chickpeas, is just tangy enough from lemon, not verging into puckery. And the stuffed grape leaves -- ah, the Greek olive oil they ooze is dark green and exquisite. All this plus a generous pile of feta cheese, a few kalamata olives, and hot pita bread -- thick and spongy, unlike the kind you get in the supermarket. This platter was worth the visit in itself, but we forged on . . .

Full review.